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Fudgy Sugar-Free High-Protein Chocolate Ice Cream |
Introduction
For some, designing a high-end frozen dessert using only alternative sweeteners and non-traditional milk fat systems will pose interesting challenges. Most frozen desserts are made with sucrose and standard milk fats as their principal components serving as the structural scaffold for the dessert. In addition to providing sweetness and flavor, sugar in ice cream lowering the freezing point of water to form a solid that has a soft and yielding texture even when it is a very cold solid. This recipe does not include sucrose or standard milk fats yet, a fantastic high-protein chocolate ice cream is created which is so fudgy in the center similar to gelato found in many of the high-end frozen dessert gelaterias.
Using ultra-filtered milk, a specially constructed whey-casein protein matrix and alternative sweeteners which replicate the functions of sucrose including the all-important freezing-point depression, this new premium frozen dessert has a dense, microcrystalline structure delivering a fudgy, but fresh, high-protein chocolate experience. With a very dark, high-end flavor and the clean, rich taste of dairy, this truly exceptional dessert is a technically innovative creation for all-year consumption – it is a health and fitness friendly, post-workout recovery product as well as a modern, low-glycemic, evening treat for gourmands.
Ingredient Deep-Dive & Smart Substitutions
Ultra-Filtered Skim Milk
Look for a brand that goes through a special filtration process that for example Fairlife does. They concentrate the protein and calcium and they take out most of the lactose.
Function: The liquid forms the foundation of the base and provides structural protein in the form of casein and whey while keeping water down to a minimum to prevent large, abrasive ice crystals.
Measurements: 1.5 cups / 360 ml
Substitutions: Unsweetened, high-protein dairy-free/vegan milk alternatives such as unsweetened pea milk/soy milk with at least 8g of protein per cup (e.g. 8g protein/cup) are good options.
Whey-Casein Protein Powder Blend (Chocolate or Vanilla)
What to look for: A premium blend (as opposed to pure whey isolate) as this will NOT become spongy when frozen as isolate does, whereas casein (a component of all protein powders) SOAKS up loads of water which is perfect for creating viscosity in a frozen product.
Function: This is the major protein ingredient and emulsifier, similar to the solids-not-fat (SNF) found in other ice cream texturizers.
Measurements: 2 scoops / 60 grams
Substitutions: Plant-based protein powder blends such as pumpkin seed, pea, and brown rice are suitable alternatives. Due to their very high water absorption a little more liquid (2 tablespoons or 30 ml) might be required.
Dutch-Processed Cocoa Powder
What to look for: We look for an alkalized cocoa powder that is of a high fat content (22-24% ) labeled as heavy dark or even European style. Sometimes they even call it heavy dark cocoa powder (and all cocoa powders are dark!).
Function: The chemical alkalization process reduces the natural acidity of the cocoa bean. The result is a smoother, milder flavor than most cocoa powders, very dark in color. In addition to providing structural solids to recipes, the cocoa also contains natural lecithin, an excellent fat emulsifier.
Measurements: 0.25 cup / 24 grams
Substitutions: Use triple-inverted black cocoa to mimic the dark color and flavor of an Oreo. However, raw cacao powder is too astringent and bitter for cold desserts and should not be used as a substitute.
Allulose Sweetener
What to look for: This product must be 100% allulose, either in granulated or liquid form.
Function: Allulose is a rare monosaccharide that is the central component of sugar-free ice cream. Unlike other low calorie sweeteners such as erythritol or stevia, allulose lowers the freezing point of water to nearly the same extent as sucrose. Therefore, sugar-free ice cream made with allulose stays soft and remains a good scoop straight from the freezer.
Measurements: 0.33 cup / 50 grams
Substitutions: erythritol or xylitol are alternatives to sugar, in granulated form. While erythritol is known to sometimes recrystallize to form a gritty texture and also has a sensation of cooling when consumed, in the pure form (which is what is used here), it will form a solid crystal in the same form as sugar if it recrystallizes. In order to avoid this in ice cream, Erythritol can be used in a reduced amount (25% less) than sugar in order to avoid having it to recrystallize in the same form as sugar.
Heavy Whipping Cream
Organic pasteurized heavy cream: It is best if the cream is not ultra-pasteurized and has a high butterfat content of at least 36% for example.
Function: The milk fat globules from this cream cover the palate preventing the growth of ice crystals and give this ice cream the high end slow melt quality that you find in expensive ice cream.
Measurements: 0.25 cup / 60 ml
Substitutions: Unsweetened canned coconut cream can be used to decrease the amount of fat, but keep in mind that it will give a completely different flavor. For a dairy-free and lipid rich ice cream, refined avocado oil or neutral MCT oil can be used to maintain the same lipid fraction.
Hydrocolloid Stabilizers (Xanthan and Guar Gum)
What to look for: Pure, food-grade powders.
Function: Both of these ingredients function in concert to add value to this formula. The Xanthan Gum adds great shear-thinning viscosity, while the Guar Gum will add water holding to the formula to prevent syneresis and crystalization as the formula is heated and cooled.
Measurements: 0.25 teaspoon / 1 gram xanthan gum + 0.25 teaspoon / 1 gram guar gum
Substitutions: If you don't have guar gum, you can increase the amount of xanthan gum to 0.5 tsp (2g) and expect a texture that is a bit sticky and more gummy than airy and creamy.
Essential Equipment
High-Powered Blender: The High-Powered Blender is critical to making the Ice Cream as it enables the necessary shear force to fully hydrate the hydrocolloids and to break down the protein in the milk to form a smooth emulsion.
Digital Kitchen Scale: Measuring the stabilizer precisely with the digital kitchen scale to a few grams, as a difference of a few grams can yield an extremely brittle gel versus a velvety scoop of frozen dessert.
Ice Cream Maker or Frozen Dessert Processor: There are two types of devices for making ice cream, a traditional ice cream maker that uses a compressor to churn the mixture, or a frozen dessert processor that uses micro-shaving to break up the ice crystals as they form, examples of this type are the Ninja Creami or similar models.
1. Base Emulsification and Hydration
In the jar of your high-powered blender, mix together ultra-filtered milk, heavy whipping cream and allulose. Sift in cocoa powder and protein powder. Mix in xanthan and guar gums directly into the blender. Blend for full 60 seconds on high.
Sensory Benchmark: It should be a uniform, very glossy black liquid. It should be very thick and pour off the spoon in a very solid stream. It should coat the back of a spoon evenly and very smoothly without leaving any powder that has not dissolved.
2. The Chilling Phase
Allow the mixture to chill in a clean glass container that has been tightly sealed. The chocolate base must reach a temperature of 39°F (4°C) or lower and this should happen in about 2 hours and placed in the refrigerator.
Aroma Cue: Allowing the chocolate cold stock to chill deepens the aroma as the volatile compounds in the cocoa can combine with the dairy fats in the stock to give a rich fudge-like aroma.
3. Churning and Aeration
Chill your ice cream base and pour it into the canister of your ice cream maker. Churn for the time specified by the manufacturer’s instructions. This will typically be about 15 to 20 minutes.
Texture Checkpoint: Before transfer to serving dishes observe the change from a glossy looking liquid to an opaque pale-chocolate colored soft-serve like consistency. The ice cream is now ready as the paddles in the churn now push the ice cream up the sides of the bowl to continue to aereate and thus to increase the overrun to the optimum.
4. Hardening
Place the soft-serve ice cream into a pre-chilled, shallow container that is fitted with an insulated cover. Press a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap down onto the surface of the ice cream to prevent formation of surface frost. Hold at 0°F (-18°C) for a minimum of 2 hours and then serve.
The Science Behind the Recipe
This recipe relies heavily on water immobilization. I always explain to students that when water freezes, it forms a very ordered crystal structure. In very high-quality ice creams, sugar prevents the formation of large, harsh ice crystals by binding to water molecules. Here, we are substituting sugar with allulose. Allulose functions identically to sucrose in this regard – it will form hydrogen bonds and thereby interfere with the formation of the crystal structure as water freezes to a sub-zero temperature.
Meanwhile, whey and casein proteins form an excellent amphiphilic network that stabilizes the air in the mixture by being at the interface between air and liquid. Xanthan and guar gum form a network of hydrocolloids that ensnares every last bit of free water, preventing it from being able to migrate and form large, harsh ice crystals. So even though this ice cream contains very little fat, it has a smooth mouthfeel unlike industrial custard made with much more richly in fat.
Pro Tips for Success
Bloom Your Cocoa: If you’re adding cocoa to make a more chocolatey ice cream then whisk up the cocoa with 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of boiling water to release all the flavors from the cocoa solids, then add to your cold dairy and blend.
Pre-Chill Your Storage Container: Store you ice cream in the freezer in its final storage container for 30 minutes prior to pouring in the churning ice cream. If you store the ice cream in a room temperature container it will melt instantly (it will go icy when you put it back in the freezer but that will be temporary) due to the delicate micro-crystals in the ice cream becoming exposed to the air from the warmth of the room and the container.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The Brick-Hard Pint
The Cause: Instead of using allulose, only using stevia, monk fruit, or erythritol for sweetening. None of these alternatives have the same molecular mass properties as allulose to decrease the freezing point of the ice cream.
To fix an ice cone that is too hard let it temper on the counter for 10 to 15 minutes or heat it up in 5 second increments in the microwave until the desired consistency is reached to scoop.
Chalky Mouthfeel
Cause: Using poor quality whey isolate that for whatever reason does not mix/hydrate properly and causes particulates to be left in mix (appearing as small dots).
Fix this: Use a high quality whey – casein protein blend and then blender the raw mixture on high speed for 1 full minute to physico – mechanically break down the molecules of the individual proteins to assure the physical characteristics and stability of the final matrix are optimal.
Culinary Safety & Hygiene
Making no-cook dairy bases requires strict sanitation. You must make sure that the blender jar, storage containers, and ice cream machine paddle are all sanitized before you begin. The raw dairy base must be held at a temperature of 40°F (4°C) or below during the holding time to prevent growth of any microbes. If you add raw egg yolks to increase the flavor and richness of your dairy base, it is best to pasteurize the egg yolks first.
The Perfect Pairing
Our dark chocolate flavor is a perfect match for flaky Maldon sea salt sprinkled on top of a handful of macerated organic raspberries for a pop of contrasting bright acidity to the very rich chocolate. For an adult twist to our ice cream, warm up a shot of single-origin espresso and pour it over a scoop to make a beautiful and high-protein affogato. Cold-brew coffee (dried and very low in sugar and calories) and mineral-forward almond milk are also lovely to drink with our flavors.
Storage & Reheating Excellence
Store your ice cream in an airtight, shallow container for up to two weeks. Because this recipe for ice cream lacks the industrial stabilizers found in most store-bought ice creams (like polysorbate 80), it will be more prone to freezer burn when exposed to air. To protect your premium ice cream from becoming frosty and unpleasantly tasting, make sure to store it in the main body of your freezer, as far from the door as possible. Before serving, let the pint of ice cream sit on the counter for 5 to 7 minutes to allow it to temper. This will allow it to regain its optimum texture for scooping, returning to its deliciously and refreshing velvety elasticity.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is there another way to make this high protein ice cream without an ice cream maker?
This high protein ice cream can be made without an ice cream maker as well. The mix can be poured into a shallow pan made of metal and then frozen, allowing to beat with a fork every 20 minutes for 2 hours to form the necessary ice crystals. It can also be filled into the silicone ice cube trays and then processed in a powerful blender or food processor when desired.
Why allulose over monk fruit or stevia in this recipe?
These sweeteners are high intensity and do not have mass, so therefore they will not provide the same results as regards to stopping ice crystals forming as allulose does. Allulose is a bulk sweetener. In addition to having sweetness, allulose also provides mass and it has the ability to bind a lot of water. These are two of the key things that keep ice cream scoopable.
Is it possible to use full-fat coconut milk instead of dairy?
The same can be achieved by using full-fat canned coconut milk, as the natural fats in this product have a similar effect to that of butterfat. While the dessert will be extremely rich and scoopable, the flavor will have a slight coconut taste and will be chocolate coconut ice cream rather than just chocolate ice cream.
Nutrition Facts
We would love to know how your masterclass batch turned out! Did you go for a traditional dark Dutch profile or did you mix things up and create a unique protein blend? We’d love to see how your creations turned out – share your experiences and upload your texture shots – we will respond to all your culinary technical questions!
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